'The Green Hell - or How I Almost Drove the Nurburgring

Overview

It has been quite a long time since I updated anything here, and I can tell you a lot has happened. I have driven more than 4000 km, met lots and lots of new people. Everyone deserving a separate chapter in this blog. However, that will not happen. I will try to mention them all, but I don't remember everyones name. To anyone reading this post, I hope you take no offense. 

Portugal 

So after I left Surferscamp for the first time, I went to Manteigas in the heart of Portugal. The heart of Portugal, is however scorching hot and the three forest fires I saw on the way only added to my conviction that the coast is a far better place to be. I then straight shot it to Faro, a small little town on the very south. There I met Katherine, from Germany. She was working at the hostel and we hung out for the rest of the evening. From Faro I went to Sagres, the end of the world. At the very tip of Portugal, I am the furthest I have been away from home on my bike. This is the start of my return journey. At Sagres I stay at a surfers hostel, meeting two dutch girls which I can not remember the name of, but they w

here nice enough to make dinner with me. From Sagres I go Lisbon and meet up with two Italians, Davide and Matteo. Also Matthew the South African is there. We have a blast in Lisbon, partying like there is no tomorrow. With a hungover spirit, I go to the Peniche, the iconic surf spot of Portugal. The hostel is empty if not for two workers, the Australian and British. Good people, but I don't stay long enough to remember their names. After Peniche I go back to Surferscamp, and is greeted by familiar faces, such as Miguel, Anna Maria, Barbora and Michelle. There are some new ones as well. The Mexicans Eric and Rafael, A new Swizz girl, Katrin and Tetiana from Ukraine. I stay for a few nights, surf a little and swap stories, before I continue north. I only stop in Porto for a new front tire before I leave Portugal. 

Spain

A nice thing about doing a return journey, is that many of the great people you met on the way, is on that same way. While I traveling south I met Gemma, a Spanish biker. I now meet up with her in Bilbao and we go out with some of here friends for a proper lost in translation moment. Good fun! I also meet Jon, from England. We go together to the Guggenheim museum. While people who know me, know that my appreciation for art is rather limited, I do manage to enjoy this strange and modern art gallery. 

France 

In France, my first stop is Bordeaux and besides it being my most expensive hotel for the trip, I leave with no specific memory. Might have to go back one day. This time I can't be bothered. The leaves are changing colour and the air getting colder. Fall is coming and I am missing home. Besides I have other important things to do. Such as dropping my beloved smart phone in the asphalt. With a busted screen I gun it for Paris and a more "civilized" society. Here I check in at a hostel and get to know a German girl called Francisca. We go through Paris and see some sights. The day after, Sophie arrive, and we have a great time going through the sights like Louvre, Eiffel tower, Versailles, and a CHROME TYRANNOSAURUS REX (How awesome is that?).

Switzerland

From Paris to Switzerland. There I meet up with Simon and Anna. While Anna has to leave for east Europe somewhere, Simon shows me the great city of Zurich. From Zurich I travel to Bern and meet Katrin, who shows me around. The last thing I do in Switzerland is getting new chain and sprockets which are worn down to the brink of snapping. Could have been interesting on the swizz highway.

Germany

With a new chain sprockets and an otherwise positive outlook on life, I move north through the black forest (ooooo..... ). The positive outlook can be explained by going from a bike with a horrible clatter from the chain to a bike running smooth as silk, my world becomes a whole lot better. After a very dark and cold ride I arrive in Karlsruhe where I visit my old flatmate Thomas. I also meet up with Eric, the Mexican. While Thomas is working I go for a spirited ride through the black forest where I stumble upon a handful of bikers, including Franzi, Marc and Andreas. They show me around to some great roads and my trusted iron steed roars of joy underneath me.

I then go the infamous track in Nurburgring, Nordschleife, the Green Hell. This place is worth to take notice for several reasons. One, because it is the longest, most dangerous, craziest race track in the world. Well not race track, but a very expensive toll roads with no speed limit and one way driving. Two, I meet some fantastic people here. First there is Kim, the Dane. He drives around in his Porsche 997 GT2 with a gazillion horse powers and a road grip better than crazy glue. Since I am a newbie at the track, he offers (after talking for about 10 minutes) to take me in his car around the track for a few laps. How awesome is that? Then there is Michael and Lisa, which are on an epic road trip on their own, with a Porsche 996. Finally there is the crazy American republican millionaire, need I say more. The next day Kim takes me out riding with Michael and Lisa waving us of through the entrance, and I'll tell ya, this is the ride of my life. The shear violence in acceleration, turning and breaking leaves me sweating after three laps. I then step out of the car and let Kim play around with a 1/10th of ton lighter car. It would have been time for me to take my bike out, but after overlooking a way to worn tire, I do not dare to take her out. Me Michael and Lisa  end up hanging out the rest of the day, talking about cars and everything else.  So thanks to Michael, Lisa and Kim. The visit to Nurburg would have nothing without you. 

From Nurburg I move (with new tire and as stitched up leather suit) to Osnabrück and visit Katherine, where we share a few bottles of rum with flatmates and neighbors. At the moment I am sitting in Lubeck. Visiting Sophie, Martin, Tibi, and other friends I have here. The trip is almost over, but there are still a few chapters left to be written.....

Point Break

Overview
It has been a long time since I posted anything here. While it is not the lack of eventful things, it is rather the motivation. Since last time I have been in Bareclona, where I hung out with Maria, Ragna and Geir. I whent to Pamplona. Met a really nice fellow biker from a Belgian MC for Vietnam veterans. Got caught in the rain in some tiny town in Spain where I met a few bikers and the English capacity was limited. But most importantly, I went to Portugal! Portugal is a fantastic place. When I first arrived to the Hostel in Porto, Martin and Tibi, from Lubeck arrived at pretty much the exact same time as me. We met in the lobby! From there things was just awesome. We spent a two nights in Porto, hanging in the pub of an old Indian lady. Anna and Sophie also joined and we had a blast going out. After some long nights in Porto, Tibi, Martin and I go to Esmoriz to Surfers Camp.

Surfs up Dude: 5/5

Rui - The boss man

For anyone wanting to go surfing, this is the place I would recommend. Rui, he's the man. He runs the show, but 'slowly slowly'. Not to say that things doesn't happen, but he never stresses us. We do as we want. If we want to surf then we surf. If we want to stay, we stay. The rest of the crew consist of Miguel, Jennie, Maria, and Anna. All in all, they make up the greatest surfing staff there is.

Paddle Paddle Paddle 6/5

Miguel - Go go go!

Now I got to say this is the first time I really went surfing (if one disregards that one day at Stat-landet), and the one thing you learn is to never stop paddling. When Miguel start shouting, you know there is a wave coming, and you are most likely in the wrong position. After one week of surfing, my arms and back barely allows me to get on my motorcycle again. But after this fantastic stay, it is time for me to move on. The pastures may not be greener where I am going, but this is nature of my trip. Find a nice place. stay for a while, but all good things has to come to an end. Still, I leave knowing that I will return. So farewell Rui, Miguel, Maria, Anna, Jennie, and all the other fantastic people I met at Surfers Camp. I will miss you greatly

So long Esmoriz

River wake surfing

Up to 'here' in F***** Castles

Overview

Last week I spent in Monaco and southern france going from Monaco through Nice, Cannes, Avignon, and Ceret. These are some of the highlights.

Yacht size 5/5

In Monaco I tried couchsurfing for the first time, and thanks to my host, Jean Noel, I had a great first experience. He really embrace the couchsurfing spirit and took in FIVE couchsurfers at the same time, including yours truly. Although he tried to show us that Monaco is more than just rich people in yachts, from a little walk around the city, I realized it is not much more. It appears that there is just as much living space in water as there is on land. One thing Monaco has is a Formula 1 track, which is not always in operation, but I did get lucky my chance to ride the Fairmont Hairpin without any hindering traffic (yei!!).

Scary Sounds 4/5

After two nights in Monaco, I headed west, and first went through Nice and went for a short walk, then stopped for a really late lunch and laying on the beach in Cannes, where I hung out with Lili Pan (a couchsurfer I met in Monaco). I then leave to find a place to stay in Marsaille or on the way.   However, when I leave Cannes I find some amazing twisting roads and at 23:00, I no really near any place to say. , Luckily I already packed some water and food, and I head into the wilderness. (Since I brought I sleeping pad I should probably use it). As I walk into the darkness, I reassure myself that there are no dangerous animals in southern France. However, the local wildlife is waking around with amplifiers, making the brown squirrel sound like the Bengal tiger. While I may not have slept much that night, partly because of how late I went to bed, and partly because I wanted to get up before I was caught sleeping in natural preservation, it was all worth it to watch the stars at night and the amazing sunrise the next day. Trip advice, go camping!

Castle Density 4/5 

One thing I have failed to mention is the glorious density of castles in this country. While of course the prince in Monaco needs one, I really don't see who lives in all these magnificent places. After and early morning rise, I went to Avignon, which is on of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. The pictures taken with my phone does not do it any justice. From Avignon the trip goes via the cost where I get some late lunch, before I go down to Ceret, and meet Ragna and Hedvig, who are apparently "working" on something, but I never see any real evidence for it. We have however a great time with motorcycle riding and cooling down in the river before I have to leave France and head towards the famous Barcelona! but since I am still here, I will tell you about it next time

From Belgium to Monaco - up and over

From Belgium to Monaco - up and over

Overview
Previously I have been cruising around in the northern part of Europe visiting friends, which has been great, but now it was time to embrace the other joy of a motorcycle trip: Riding the twisties. For besides from Norway, there hasn't been any proper roads for me to ride on. Even my trusted winding road finding GPS couldn't provide me with some real motorcycle roads. But leaving Belgium, all of that would change. The following scores are my evaluation of the roads outside of the highways.

Belgium 1/5
I have to say that this country really did not impress road wise. The surface was ok inside the small towns, but going outside of towns was quite horrible. And since the country is flatter than a Norwegian waffle, the roads are straigther than  John Wayne voting for Reagan on a horse. Belgium gets one stars since it doesn't take long to get out of the country (No offence to any Belgian readers).

Mid France 3/5
Moving into France the roads became quite different. Instead of having good surface in cities and crap outside, the french chose the opposite approach. Great surface on the countryside, and real world bump mapping in towns. The roads where not impressively twisting, but you can cruise at a legal 90 km/h and not become bored. Highways costs money and are unnecessary. 

Switzerland 3/5
Switzerland was good, and I can see potential for good twisties, but the surface was kind of crap. Some really nice roads up towards St. Bernards pass, but after the final few kilometers I was praying that my kidneys where still in place.

St. Bernards Pass 2469m

Italy 4/5

Italy had a great first impression. Coming down from St. Bernards pass was some of the best roads I have ridden. Smooth surface and no traffic. I can't remember having a smoother ride than this. The morning after it rained heavily and I chose to take the highway to eat up some kilometers. When the sun finally cleared up, I got off the high way, but sadly I was in the low lands.  Flat and straight. But cranking up some tunes and drying up in the sun was better than the rainy Aosta valley. Towards the end of the day I approach another mountain pass, and the long stretch in the planes is rewarded with some great winding roads. Skipping a tunnel, I go to the top of the ski resort near Panice Soprana. The winding road  down took me back into the south of France and down to Monaco where the warm Mediterranean greeted me. After some frantic driving inside Monaco I finally arrive at my couchsurfer-host.

The Mediterranean at last

Brussels


Overview
Beer, that's what it is folks, beer. There is so much beer in this place, it is quite hard to fathom. One bar has 2500 types of beer. I did my best and tried four, but not in that bar. Way to crowded. It was otherwise a short stay in Brussels, but I found a place for me. Or at least that's what it sounded like.

Beers 6/5
Oh my!







                                                                                                                                                           

Flemm-ish

Overview

Belgium is strange, but strange in a good way. First of all there was the prepaid gas. Then there is the drunk cop. A whole lot of chocolate and beer and otherwise great fascination with french fries, or Belgian fries. In general a great place to stay.

Chocolatygoodness 5/5

Fantastic.. nothing more to say

Drunkenness 5/5

I was lucky to be in Ghent during the annual Gentse feesten, which is a huge free music festival, where everyone is drinking and dancing in the streets. A highlight must be mentioned about a large drunk cop (not on duty) was amazed by my height and continuously said that I was good guy. Guess I am safe on the road I thought. However, after about 500 pictures taken with me and him (on his request), he didn't even remember a tall Norwegian guy the next day. Oh well, so much for a lasting impression

Ze Germans


Overview

Lübeck has become familiar to me after a few previous visits. However, those visits are usually around Weinachtsmarkt and things are a bit dark and cold. In summer, Lübeck is significantly warmer (go figure) and that opens up for a hole new set of outdoor activities. I met up with a few friends on Saturday evening (21.07) and we went out to the beach for some camping and to quote previous uncredited authors "the naked people where everywhere". Seems like German clothing are extremely sensitive to saltwater. Even my travel companions had the same challenges. Although moving back into Lübeck things turned back to normal, and we enjoyed the day after at a flee market,  hanging out in the park and eating out.

Outdoorness 4/5

This stay, I spent mostly outdoors which was in general very pleasant. Still a bit cold during the night due to a very cold sleeping bag used by yours truly. The lake and park in Lubeck should be visited, just be aware of the bees on the ground (Martin)

Nakedness 5/5

This requires no explanation.

A Day in Hipster Central

A Day in Hipster Central

Overview

Copenhagen is a peculiar place for a simple country boy like myself: The city is filled with coffee shops, modern architecture and not a single bicycle from after 1980. Because if there is one thing they take seriously it is their hipster style. 

Hipster Density 5/5

 The Copenhagen hipster is a fairly laid back creature and my host blends  in amongst them without effort. It glides across the city on their old bikes and only gets upset if one would interfere with his or hers bike lane, which is considered holy ground in hipster central.

Walkabouts 4/5

Although biking around is a great way to move about, you can seemingly walk forever in this city. And there are plenty to see. Bridges, harbors, boats, pizza huset (where you eat sandwiches), Italian ice cream and more. Bring some good shoes, lots of money and a large dose of biker patience.

Three socks, a boxer shorts and 4000 NOK 

Overview

M and LJ provides a warm welcoming atmosphere to what some would say is the slightly more shady side of Drammen. Maybe they call it shady since it is facing north, or it might be that there are some thieving scum trying to ruin everything good an holy in this world living there. Anyways, at M and LJ's place the shady side is brightened by warm coffee, cute kittens, good food and good company. The hosts gladly provides entertainment in form of video games, swimming, hiking and exiting guided tours to Holmsbu. 

Nightlife: 4/5

Great dance parties are often seen in the vicinity of Drammen and transportation is arranged by the host

Price: 2/5

While accommodation is fairly low cost, collateral costs might reach the extreme, leaving my three socks, one boxer shorts and 4000 kroners poorer after the washer demanded a sacrifice and the insurance only covered expenses beyond 4000 NOK 

Hospitality: 5/5

M and LJ's are unmatched in hospitality and they provided sanctuary for a stranded MC-traveler while waiting for repairs. The author would recommend this place for everyone.

,

Back together again

Stranded..

Some men just want to see the world burn

Stealing a motorcycle is not that hard. I had to hot wire my first bike after my ignition lock corroded. My second bike was lifter without a trace from outside my apartment. However, these retards was unable to lift my bike, but not before the jammed a screwdriver into the ignition lock and  kicking off the disc lock. How on earth does these inbred low life scum of the earth manage to not getting away with the bike I don't know,  but now I am stranded. Hope everyone is having a better motorcycle-summer than me...

Boyscouts and Motorcycle Trouble

Norwegian National Scouting Camp

After a brief stay in Haugesund, I traveled down to Stavanger, where a large amount of quasi-militant youth had gathered in a city of tents. Here I met Johannes, Ole Jacob, Espen and Svein Magne and also my mother! After spending two days in the sun eating ice cream, it is time for me to depart and remove my self from the west coast.

A Cabin in the Woods and a Flat Tire

The third day of riding brought me north east to our cabin in Etnedal. Although I arrived late, my brother and his family welcomed me with a nice steak dinner! The morning after we spend outdoors playing with my niece. In the evening we move down to Dokka to our aunts, but there my bike had other plans. The 600 km from Stavanger plus the final few km of gravel road was more than my already worn tire could handle, which effectively left my bike stranded in the woods. Looks like my bike trip will get a slight delay...

  

Departure

After every box moved, after every bag packed, after every good byes and farewells have been shared, it is the 1st of July and the contract of my apartment is ended. I can now finally begin my... wait a minute.... My new Trax luggage set for my bike has not arrived yet. Stranded, I now have to bargain to stay one more night in my old apartment. Luckily Sabrinas new room mate, Marit, was nice enough to let me stay.

The next day I spend waiting for the luggage kit to arrive. When it finally does, I spend the rest of the afternoon mounting it, and after a long day I can depart the old homestead and turn my nose south and embark on my journey. 

For those of you now uninformed about my journey, I can tell you this: For the next undefined period of time I will travel to a series of non-predefined destinations, having my bike as my only travel companion. My current progress will be kept on this page, and if you are by coincidence nearby my current location, then I would love to hear from you, and maybe we could meet up. 

That is all for now. I will try to update as often as possible for all interested readers, including my potential route for the next days.